Loake1880 is good starting point and it used to be a very good value. Tanks, if you will. Giro bike shoes: 45.5 EU - Great fit. I have dainite soled storm welted trickers penny loafers and also commando soled stows, and I cant see myself wearing them much with anything aside from jeans or super casual chinos/corduroys. I will refrain from commenting on fit unless people think it will be helpful. To me, theyd come in just below C&J, Loding in Canada had a service (a couple years back) that involved a full time patina specialist in Montreal. Aha, I see. I realise this may seem like a simple choice, and maybe thats exactly what youll say, but Im only 25 years old and money is definitely a consideration. Perhaps someone will find them useful: 1. NWT Pual Smith Linen, Cotton & Silk Blend Neck Tie in Navy w/ White Polka Dots from MR Porter, New w/ Tag $200+ Brioni Italian Made Woven Silk Purple Paisley Neck Tie from Bergdorf Goodman, Vintage Dunhill English Made Black Leather Long Wallet. One thing I could never understand is why, from lower to higher price points, RTW makers dont provide more width options. When I complained I was told The second pair is always better ! I have owned shoes from most of the English brands, and 5-10 Spanish brands and 5-10 Italian brands, and its a quite clear difference (but again, there are exceptions in both directions. @ Matty, if your initial post was relatively friendly and good natured Im sure you would have gotten a similar reply. Carmina Rain Oxford - 9.5 UK. The US has several brands that fit into this discussion - some old, some new. Too tight in the vamp and mid-foot. The quality difference was like night and day and Id have no hesitation recommending the Loake 1880s as a good budget shoe. The sort of thing that Septieme Largeur really excel in . Jack & White Bros Round Last 9: Probably the best fit now. Like the arbitrary claim that the soles on English soles wear out more quickly than European ones. Its a solid fit. I think I could tell the difference between a standard C&J and EG from a distance, though I wouldnt like to put that to the test! Finally, in terms of comfort, the insoles are much thicker and more comfortable in terms of conforming to the shape of my foot than any other shoes on this list (including Weston) other than Andres Sendra. In durability? Grant Stone Leo 9D: Solid fit. Maybe this section could be titled North America rather than United States. Carmina shoes are made with premium materials that are much superior to materials used for making Meermin shoes. Myrqvist shoes are dreadful. I once dumped a veritable fortune on a pair of bespoke Berluttis that caused me so much physical discomfort I was left with the impression they had been designed by the Gestapo. Would these look good suits ( navy/grey) and trousers ) blues/grey/green/white etc.) I'm not sure if this last has a particular name. I absolutely could not go a half-size down. Alden Trublanace 9D: Far more volume than I need and a lot of play side to side in the ankle area but certainly comfortable. Both these shoemakers offer value far and a way above a UK shoe at a similar price point so they really are worth a look for a person prepared to put in the effort. Oak Street Bootmakers Elston 9.5D: Only tried on, seemed like a good fit, but the boots went back for a return. C&J do not run their own shops. And do you know any retailer in continental Europe who sells Anthony Cleverley? Theyre a good place to start: a baseline of quality. As Carmina did when it first became popular, and as TLB Artista (below) is perhaps doing now. I definitely enjoy the articles with the highest quality makes but its nice to have a change of pace as well, especially if its going to help me make a decision on something Im likely to buy. Andres Sendra: I have a pair of wholecuts. Related/unrelated, I find myself in flux style wise right now in the early stages of coming out of Covid. I could wear these with my really thick winter socks if I wanted to. This article, then, is an analysis of the market for mens dress shoes below the Crocketts Handgrade level - all informed by Jesper. Again, a big thank you to Simon and Jesper for the article. Meermin has started including thin leather insoles with the HOK boots now and they improve the fit significantly. 6.5D Carmina: 5.5: UK: Forest, Robert - 5.5UK: 6.5D Carmina Forest: 5.5: UK: 5.5UK with a smidge of heel slip: (I think I prefer the darker colour of the first). Somehow lower instep than E? if I like a pair of suede Edward Greens chelseas and Meermin (or Allen Edmond or Loake) chelseas the same out of the box, would I enjoy the EG uppers longer because theyre of a higher grade suede? Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. With shoes, up to a certain quite high price point, you get what you pay for and further this is possible to judge objectively. Really useful local knowledge, thanks David. Nick horween has spoken at length about this, so shell cordovan chromexcel etc are technically corrected grain. I think either would be fine. Red Wing Moc Toe: 10D, narrow in ball of foot. Dont buy both together though do buy one then the other, just to make sure you do like that style and fit etc. (For a RTW dark brown oxford, although I could stretch my budget a bit more, up to 400 euros). I believe that I am at the upper limit for this last. The ball of my foot is at the widest part of the boot. Onderhound New Buteo 41.5: Volume is a little high, but the width and arch length are bang on. Its why Ive avoided buying from them. So in order to create a frame of reference, I phoned Jesper Ingevaldsson, who writes the website Shoegazing.com and now works in the industry, for Swedish shop/brand Skolyx. if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[580,400],'footslide_com-medrectangle-3','ezslot_13',107,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-footslide_com-medrectangle-3-0');Let us see what Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes look like at first glance: One of the most elegant shoes out there today is the Carmina shoes. As for Northampton shoes they are still great value if you buy in the sale or go to the factory shops. Cobbler Union (above) is a newer brand, and more similar to TLB or Carmina, while Spier & MacKay is a clothing brand with a line of shoes at 220 which is decent for the price. Rancourt 114 9D: Great fit sometimes. To me, the leather feels similar to Carmina, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible. Now use your measurement and select the size based on your foot's length (see size chart below). Thanks, which makes them a bit of a bargin at the moment with 20% off. Trickers appears to have a wider breadth to me, especially in country shoes and boots in lots of leathers and colours. Parkhurst 9D: Great fit. Meermins have also been fine, especially for suede loafers. But it fits pretty good and I'd happily buy another pair of 1035. Avoid if you have a low instep or wide feet. Yes, you certainly do notice the differences, and they are both of the quality type (unlike a shirt) and the making type (more like hand sewing). I appreciate it doesnt work for everyone geographically, but most of the famous English brands are still manufactured in the Northampton region. Thanks EL. I loved the MTO experience there. Thus, not likely to be much different from your C&J in terms of make, but the last and the leather may differ. all have factory shops if you are looking for a classic style but at a price closer to a discounted Loake. Everyone in London should visit John and ask for his advice on shoes. Allen Edmonds is a shoe company and will always be known as such. My favourite pair of C&J have been back to the factory four times for refurbishment. Dress socks. Although the quality is nothing to write home about, they are incredibly comfortable. There is one new Brand Lethato seen on different portals and I saw their boots are attractive and reasonably priced. Carmina shoes have soles that are durable and very comfortable in their design, due to the Goodyear Welt construction used to hold them in place. Rock Your Socks- show your sock, shoe & pant combos, *DROP 3/1* NWT $240 Ralph Lauren Purple Label Italian Made Navy Linen & Mulberry Silk Twill Neck Tie, * DROP 3/1 * NWT $225 Ralph Lauren Purple Label Italian Made Square Knit Solid Black Silk Neck Tie, R.M.Williams Comfort Craftsman Tobacco Suede UK 8.5 H. OGIO Golf Travel Bags The Royal Experience! Sendra has its own brand as well as making for others, which is a little more expensive than Berwick or Meermin. Indeed the leather is really stiff. Overall, Meermin shoes are great shoes, but they appear to be poorly finished when compared to Carminas. Meermin Burgundy Oxford Shoe || Men's US 8 UK 7 E. $50.00 + $32.48 shipping. Its a narrow last with a very high instep. I wonder how much more comfortable it would be. I would like to recommend Trading Post in Japan. EL, I think you kind of answered the question in your first statement. Brilliant article I really enjoyed that . I believe shoes like Meermin have a place in Menswear. Bought before I understood my size. Yeah, Luca Rubinacci apparently also has a cooperation with them, which frankly I dont understand, Just for info, Velasca in Italy does have a selection of shoes that are Goodyear welted:https://it.velasca.com/collections/francesine-goodyear Although Carmina shoes are more expensive than Meermin shoes, there is so much value that you can get when you make that extra investment to get them. I agree that they might be a touch conservative (although they do now have more stylised lasts compared to a few years back), and that youre less likely to get more interesting leathers like museum calf or patinated. My Yanko boots I enjoy in the winter months here in New Zealand (about now). I think it makes sense for C&J to stick to making shoes and not running shops. For There is a great day out to be had (or was) visiting the factory shops of the main makers in and around Northampton. Its the same width as the 8.5E, but just a smidge longer and is perfect. Other than more subjective things like style, it's fair to say this is the most consistent difference between English and Spanish shoes. This separates footwear from most of fashion and it feels good to support the companies that work towards this. 1 down the toe could be getting very short. Alden Van (unlined shell): 10D, ended up selling before fully breaking in. Their prices and quality is a good balance. Simon, I was wondering what are your thoughts on Sanders. Similar wide heel to the 1035. Thanks a lot Simon. They used to offer calf leather and Goodyear welting at incredible prices though the soles would wear quickly and their shops recommended Topy. Think Ill grab a pair of black calf Trickers first, then see how I go. Especially compared to other Spanish or Italian shoes, which are also a bit softer than the English., North America: Spier & MacKay, Allen Edmonds, Cobbler Union, John Doe. Yanko 915 3 eyelet derby 9.5UK: Probably more form fitting and snug than tlb or carmina (probably due to sizing down) but near perfect in shape. very lucky to have bought 8 pairs of EG at a big discount so my shoe cupboard is overflowing and needs to be trimmed now Im looking forward to stopping by! But they are still good value for money. I suspect the 1035 in 9.5 would fit me perfectly. If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. Below that, there are smaller differences created by new entrants to the market. While I have no problem wearing RTW tailoring that is cheap relative to the bespoke stuff you discuss on the website, with shoes I found it impossible to go back to cheaper brands once I got my first EGs. Joseph Cheaney are undoubtedly the thinking flaneurs cordonnier. I've been told that the forest last is the only one available in a wide, but only in mto. The instep is high, but massive on the service boot pattern. Vass, TLB Artista, even Meccariello. Frankly, I wouldnt wear anything else. Most shoes that say theyre made in the Almansa area of Spain are made by Sendra.. Generally, more expensive suedes are the softer stuff, so it seems to me that theyd actually wear faster. Either as a good value buy for one who is unwilling or unable spend more, or, as a gateway purchase into the world of fine mens shoes. They can be found on many websites for less than 300( e.g. Assuming that none have cracks or discolorations, are there significant differences in how different grades of suede used for shoes wear over time? Unless there is also a considerable increase in quality, Id say this reposition leaves Church as even less of a value for money option. On the other hand, Meermins wont last you as long as Carminas will. JavaScript is disabled. TLB is from Mallorca, like Carmina, but is only a few years old and is trying to gain a similar reputation. Scotch Grain is particularly big and has its own production and stores, as well as being in department stores. They initially repaired free of charge and when the heels came loose again they replaced for a shoe from their 1880 range. Custom ordered these with a combination last of 9.5E toe and 9.5D heel. Viberg 110: Last is shorter than other service boot lasts. 8 last 9D: Bad fit. For 200, its a really solid shoe. It is relatively easy to find them discounted, Apologies if this question is in the wrong place. As someone who has handled or owned several of these brands I thought it would be helpful to offer my experience, anecdotal though it may be. "The quality control isnt quite as good as the English as well.. The heel is the most notably roomier and the length actually seems to be the same. I used DT cushioned boot socks at the time. I think I could also safely do this last in in 9.5, but I'm not trying to wear my boots as tight as possible. Roomy toe box, heel is snug and hugs my foot all around. Barefoot, thick socks, whatever. However, when I visited meermin pop up in London, I dont think I would ever get a black box calf from them! Rafal hails from Poland and is a shoemaker who creates each pair of shoes by himself. Noel it is precisely the point you make that has been behind my long standing decision to stay with C&J over all these years. Im happy I earn enough now to not care about this market segment any longer. Ive since moved on to other brands because I wanted higher quality. Would be interesting to hear. This was several years ago, so my recollection isnt as detailed. And that at the end of the day, I would be better off saving on a getting an additional major item a year of fine quality rather than getting a 30th shirt that I dont really need. Have been on a Brannock only once. At Styleforum, youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. 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Think Ill grab a pair of JL is another question scotch grain is particularly and.